Description
Coccidiosis is an infection caused by a protozoan (one-celled organism) called coccidia. Unlike most reptile endoparasites (those that live inside the host), coccidia are not worms; but live in the actual cells of the intestine walls. A bad infestation of coccidia can cause diarrhea and for this reason may be mistakenly idetified as a 'worm problem'. For reference purposes, strains most often affecting Beardies are called Isospora and Eimeria.
Life Cycle
It seems likely that coccidia occur naturally in Bearded Dragons. Oocysts (immature coccidia; think of them a bit like eggs) can be passed from dragon to dragon in the faeces
of an infected dragon, where they lie on the ground (or in a cage substrate), eventually maturing into a more developed oocyst (known as a sporulated oocyst), which can reinfect the same dragon or any other dragons exposed to them.
If these sporulated oocysts are ingested, they complete their life cycle inside the affected dragon and a fresh generation of oocysts are then expelled to begin the cycle again. They can also be eaten by crickets (who commonly feed on faeces in captivity) and this is also another way a dragon can become infected.
However, it seems that as long as a dragon's immune system doesn't become compromised by other illnesses, parasites or stress, coccidia levels don't increase to a level that adversely affects the dragon's overall health. All my dragons carry coccidia, but my vet has never bothered to treat it because the levels of infestation are low and it is not
Side Effects / Visible Symptoms
A severe infestation can cause bleeding from the digestive system walls (most commonly seen as bloody stools), resulting in weakness caused by anemia from the internal bleeding, metabolic poisoning from an overload of parasites (which produce toxic waste material), displacement of food (the parasites utilize most or all of the hosts food , resulting in malnutrition) - the most commons visible signs being weakness, lethargy or dramatic weight loss.
Another common visible syptom is very loose and VERY smelly stools.
Diagnosis
Examine the stools of an infected animal under a misroscope. Because the oocysts themselves are much smaller than the eggs intestinal worms, a very careful study must be made.
Treatment
The most commonly used drug to treat high levels of coccidia is a sulfa-type antibiotic sulfadimethoxine, commonly known as Albon.
Recommended dosage/treatments
The commonest dosages currently in use are as follows:
50mg for every 1kg of the affected dragon's weight for 3 days, followed by 3 days without treatment and a further 3 days with treatment. This must then be followed by a faecal exam.
50mg/kg for 5 days and then treat every other day until faecal samples come back negative.
75mg/kg the first day and then 40mg/kg for the next 6 days.
Treatment Side Effects
Known side effects of Albon are:
Sulfa crystals in the animal's urine - this is not a problem in a well hydrated animal (it is imperative that an animal under treatment is kept well hydrated.)
A less common side effect is keratoconjunctivitis sicca or 'KCS' (also known as 'dry eye'). that is caused by inadequate tear production. Symptoms include a thick, yellowish discharge from the eye.
Retinal Damage
Bone Marrow Suppression - the cells of the bone marrow (which produce red blood cells, white blood cells and platelets) are inhibited.
Also :- allergic reactions, fever, arthritis, diarrhea, and kidney damage. An animal that is pregnant, gravid or nursing or known to have a liver or kidney disease should ideally not be treated with Albon.
Quarantine
This probably the most important part of treatment and the prevention of reinfection by coccidia.
Quarantine will also minimize the risk of spreading the parasites to
other animals in the household who could in turn reinfect the dragon later on.
Keep the affected dragon in as sterile and clean an environment as possible recovery. perhaps the best method is to use a large RubberMaid tub (aka Tote), rather than the dragon's cage or aquarium. Thsse tubs have the advantage of being lightweight, easy to clean and inexpensive (and at the end of the day, you can use them for storage in the basement!)
Simplicity is the best way to make a quarantine cage. Use paper towels (such as kitchen towels) in the bottom, not a granular substrate. The towels must be replaced and the tubs washed with a 10% bleach : water solution as soon as possible after any faeces are produced and in any event, at least once a day. Reinfection is the most common cause of a failed treatment, so this is important.
It goes without saying that a source of UVA/UVB and heat must also be supplied as you would in a normal cage and it is a good idea to provide a heating pad set on the lowest temperature setting at night if the house becomes cool (turn it off when the lights come on in the morning.)
Higher temperatures increase immune system functions, assists in faster absorption of medication and speeds up the explulsion of drugs from the body which reduces the build up of toxins.
While your dragon is undergoing treatment, leave out all rocks, branches etc as they can harbour bacteria and parasites which will in turn reinfect your dragon.
Special Care During Treatment
It is quite common for Bearded Dragons to lose their appetite or get dehydrated during any kind of medical teatment. Do not ignore if this happens!
Treating an animal that isn't eating or drinking
Smaller Dragons :- Use an eyedropper (your pharmacist should be able to supply you). In simple terms, all you do is drip food (such as Gerber baby food, chicken flavour with a calcium D3 supplement added daily and a multivitamin supplement once a week) and/ or liquids (such as water, Pedialyte or diluted apple juice) on the animal's nose, taking care not to get any in the nostrils. A dragon will usually respond by automatically licking the 'dirty' area and you can then continue to provide nourishment this way until the animal recovers of regains its former vitality and appetite.
Larger Dragons :- A syringe without the needle (again, talk to your local pharmacist) is
the best and safest method. Place the filled syringe against the side of the jaw towards and lever gently inwards and upwards so as to either force the jaws open or encourage the dragon to open its mouth. Once the dragon has the syringe in its mouth, you can empty the syringe into its mouth - but be carefull not to do this too quickly oir you may get food or liquid into the windpipe
The Albon will inhibit the dragon's normal gut flora (bacteria), so to prevent a secondary infection from other bacteria, either feed natural yoghurt or Acidophilus (both are available in health food stores. )